The Checker Taxi Stand

aerobus74 · Two-Bit Hack Joined: 10 May 2008 Posts: 2

Hello, I have been having problems starting my 1974 Checker and I don't believe it is the starter or battery. I think its a starter relay but my local parts store doesn't show this part. Do any of these electrical parts on the driver side inner fender have anything to do with starting? Thanks.

http://usera.imagecave.com/jacksprocket/PictureorVideo001-copy.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/jacksprocket/PictureorVideo002-copy.jpg

john_w · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:43 am Post subject:

Can't say for sure but none of those cables look heavy enough to be part of the starting circuit. If I was guessing, those are some kind of auxiliary circuit, maybe horn?

In the GM powered cars, the starting circuit is pretty simple and just like a Chevy for the same year. Positive cable to solenoid on starter, negative cable to engine block, small starter circuit wire from ignition switch. You might want to download the wiring diagrams from the manuals section of the web site.

Usually, there are a couple of fairly common problems, either loose cables or the solenoid.

Assuming you've checked the cables at the battery and the starter, check the ground cable connection to the block ... most of time it is on the passenger side on the front of the block and (on later cars) hiding behind the AIR smog pump where it is not easy to see. If you can't easily get to it, a quick way to test is run a battery jumper cable from the negative battery post to anywhere on the block you can get a good connection to duplicate the ground cable.

The other thing is the stater solenoid itself ... if you don't hear it go click when you turn the key, it is either bad or not getting juice. Over time they quite often go bad from heat ... it's a Chevy problem, not just a Checker problem. If it clicks and nothing happens, it's the starter itself that is bad.

John W

captunderdog · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:41 am Post subject:

Everyone who has any interest under the hood at all should own a voltmeter. The ones I use are quite expensive because I use them to help make my living. However an inexpensive unit can be had for as little as 25 bucks. (edit) I just got back from Ace Hardware and I saw a nice volt meter for $13.88.

Hold the two probes on their respective battery posts; the initial reading should be 12.2-12.6volts. Then have someone try to start the car; the voltage should not drop below 10.5 or so. If it does drop below there, either the battery is bad or the starter is dragging. Ok, not exactly, yet; in one instance the voltage didn't drop and the car just went "click". I moved the positive probe about a half inch to the left onto the battery cable end that was clamped to the post and tried it again; this time the voltage went to zero. The culprit was the dirty cable end was not making good enough contact.

If your voltage doesn't drop and the car just goes "click" then there is bad contact somewhere down on the starter, usually the solenoid. Here a jumper wire will come in handy if your test leads are not long enough to reach the starter. Clip the positive test lead onto the large wire or strap that leads from the bottom of the solenoid into the starter. On the GM/Checker starters this will be a small bolt securing a copper strap that goes down into the starter. When you try to start the car you should see battery voltage on this wire. If not the solenoid is the culprit, If so and the starter will not turn then the problem is in the starter.

Like John says the most common problems are the solenoid not making contact and corroded cable ends not making contact. The cable can be tight and look ok on the battery post and still not make good contact. Also check the ground like John describes and then you will know a lot more about your problem.

Oh, and the unit on the left is a circuit breaker and the unit on the right is the horn relay. Neither relate to the starting system. The GM/Checker starting system is all contained in the starter/solenoid assembly.
_________________
God Bless.
Walt

john_w · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:40 pm Post subject:

Forgot to post a link to the wiring diagrams since new members sometimes have trouble finding them. I just looked at it and the 73 set should work fine for troubleshooting the starting problem.

All Wiring Diagrams

John W

aerobus74 · Two-Bit Hack Joined: 10 May 2008 Posts: 2

Thanks for your help. Now I know why my parts counter couldn't find a started relay, there isn't one. I believe my problem is in the starter solenoid, I started having problems starting while I was having a running hot problem, now fixed.

captunderdog · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:55 pm Post subject:

If you want to fix your hot-start problem forever on any GM car 1955 to 1985 you need MAD Electrical's Start-M-up kit. This really works. Go to madelectrical.com and there is a wealth of information on his site about GM electrical systems and a kit to fix most all of the problems you will ever encounter on a GM based hot rod, Checkers included. I talked with Mark on the phone for over an hour the other day while ordering the kit to wire the newer CS 130 alternators to my Checker. He was thrilled that it was going on a Checker and never said "a what?" or asked who made it. He knew exactly what a Checker is and he even knew what year they quit building them so he's been around a while. He is in Springville, California. He is a lot like Joe Pollard in that he likes to take orders on the phone so he can chat and share the wealth of knowledge that he has. He even explains the fusible link and it's pro's and cons on his site. Really good reading.

I suppose this is a shameless plug for Mark, but when I find a source as knowlegable as Mark with as much trick stuff as he sells, well I'm going to share with the Checkerheads.
_________________
God Bless.
Walt